World of Knits – Focus on ITY
Adapted from a presentation by Debbie Troyer to her NG
Knits have evolved considerably since the polyester double knit of the 1970’s. Sewists have access to many types of contemporary knits such as …
Interlock • Slinky • Minky • ITY • Ponte • Bullet • DTY • Liverpool • Scuba • Jersey • FrenchTerry • Double Brushed • Rib Knit • Sweatshirt • Sweater Knit • Thermal • Waffleweave • Double Knit • Velvet • Burnout
This article focuses on ITY knits and how to use them. These knits can be made with combinations of polyester, rayon (bamboo, modal, etc.), cotton, techno blends, and spandex. A favorite of many designers is rayon ITY because of its fluid drape.
ITY knits are unique because they have many desirable characteristics that are combined into one fabric. Usually they are a light-to-medium weight, two-way knit with a nice drape. The greater stretch (50%) is cross grain, and it feels soft to the touch. Additionally, it’s cool to wear because of the breathability and elastic qualities. The fabric has low or no wrinkling or pilling. ITY is readily available in a variety of colors and prints and is comfortable for many people to wear all year. Finally, it is easy care: wash in cool water (no bleach) and dry low temp (dryer) or lay flat.
Suggestions for successful sewing with sewing ITY include using –
75/11 ball point or stretch needle
Cotton/polyester blend or 100% polyester thread
Zigzag length 2.0 and width 2.0 (or use serger) machine settings; use walking foot
If slippery, use tissue paper under fabric and go slowly.
Tricot fusible or power mesh sew-in for interfacing
A helpful tool –
Pamela’s Patterns sells a stretch ruler, which does just that – it measures how much stretch is in your fabric. Usually on the major pattern company’s patterns, there is a small picture ruler with a note saying “your fabric should stretch from here to here”; well now there is a ruler that actually calculates the percentage of stretch in your fabric.
One pattern Debbie has used several times is an Angela Wolf pattern called The Ruched-T. It sews up very quickly, and little fitting is required. Also, it is so versatile with various necklines, sleeves and hem finishes. This pattern has been featured on the TV program “It’s So Easy”, on each Saturday afternoon at 12:30 p.m. on Comcast channel 10.
Debbie in the short-sleeved version of The Ruched-T. Even though it is of ITY knit, it is not clingy, as the side view clearly shows.
One of Angela Wolf’s newest patterns, The Lacey Top, is also very versatile with color blocking or lace or netting in the back and/or sleeves. It flows gracefully across the bottom and is only fitted through the front. Angela likes to use rayon ITY.
Debbie loves Pamela’s Patterns because she designs patterns with the mature body in mind. She allows extra room in the tummy, hips and I’ve never been disappointed with one of her patterns. Perfect for an ITY or Ponte knit.
Other patterns to consider for sewing with ITY-
Tops – Angela Wolf The Ruched-T; Angela Wolf The Lacey Top; Pamela’s Patterns Pleated Back Flowy Top; Pamela’s Patterns Peek-a-Boo Swing Tunic; Pamela’s Patterns The Perfect T
Dress – Simplicity 2054
Pants – New Look 6381
Skirt – Simplicity 1068
Thank you, Debbie, for sharing this useful and interesting information with us!